IWC Automatic 1972

Ever since I became seriously interested in watches, finding a good example of an IWC was a mission. Finally, here it is, not a good example but a perfect example! This 1972 stainless steel model; with a monocoque case and the 8541 automatic movement was fully restored in 1993 by IWC in Schaffausen, Switzerland. 

Micro adjustment screws on the balance

The 8541 25 jewel movement is a beautiful piece of watchmaking craft, one of the best automatic movements ever made. It features some unique features; an excenter winding mechanism, brequet overcoil hair spring, adjustment screw weights on the balance arms for micro adjustment and several other features not found in lesser watches.

162,000 of these movements were produced from 1963-1974, although the basic design goes back to 1946. Its first predecessor went into production in 1950.

In the mid 60s Seiko used a simplified version of the excenter winding mechanism in its automatics, a series of which became the most comercialy successful automatic movement of all time and its descendant is still in production.

The IWC (International Watch Company) is quality through and through; the dial, hands, case but the style is very uninspiring and conservative.

Like a Rolls Royce, what it lacks in style it makes up in quality and elegance.

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EDOX 1970c

The term “New old stock” is used quite loosely in the classic watch market. This rare find is as close as I have come to a watch that is faithful to the term.

I brought it in Germany and it is 100% original. It has the original Edox sticker on the back with a hand written 120/- a sticker over the top of that with 60/- hand written and a swing tag taped to the strap with “Preis 86.00” printed on it.

This watch is early seventies and preis is price in German so the original price would have been 86 Deutshe Marks. Then, who knows? Maybe it was re-priced years later to DM120 or maybe it is in Euro or it went abroad and the 120/- is another currency. Anyway, it was 120 something and then, still unsold, was reduced to half price, 60/-.  It didn’t sell for 60/- either and probably spent the next 30 years or so in some back street jewellers shop drawer.

When it finally saw the light of day again, earlier this year, I snapped it up. Tarnished case, lightly scratched glass and case, broken down glue in the strap…….speaking of the strap, how seventies is the brown suede!!

I did not touch any of the stickers or the strap. I gave the case and glass a light polish.

The lume on the hands shows signs of breaking up through age and the dial is slightly faded probably from years of being in a shop window.

The Superb Edox finish in a pre polished tarnished case

The movement is an ST1950 with the typical Edox highest quality finish.

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Certina Chronograph 2008

I’m a sucker for chronographs as I am for Certinas and here I have both.

Certina will never again reach the heights that they achieved in the 60s but, just like all Swiss big names that went out the back door in the 70s, this name was resurrected using standard Ebauche movements. In this case it’s an ETA251-471 three register chrono with date function. It has a 100metre water resistant case with a sapphire crystal, very well finished case and pleasant design.

It’s a Certina from 2008, an okay Swiss chronograph but not a patch on the classic Certinas of the 60s.

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Baume et Mercier Chronograph 1955c

Baume et Mercier is one of the most exclusive names in watches today so much so that there are only 220 retailers worldwide that sell the product.

The brand was established in 1830 but apart from longevity in existence the brand is only famous for one thing; being famous! I know of no technical achievements and during the 50’s and 60’s when most brands where reaching their zenith, this brand used standard Ebauche movements and chrome plated cases.

This two register chronograph from the mid 50s would have been a doctor’s watch with the pulsations ring around the outside of the dial. Speaking of the dial, this has been repainted (how faithful to the original, I don’t know).

The case is typical of many chronos of the period, non waterproof and uses an “ordinary” but very good Landeron 48 movement. But, was it an exclusive watch at the time? I doubt it because apart from the characteristics mentioned it has a chrome plated case with a stainless steel back, like the cheapest of watches.

Never-the-less I’m happy to have this nice watch from the mid 50s in my collection, not only is it a Baume & Mercier, it’s a chronograph!

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Seiko Chronogrpah 1974

This very nice Seiko chronograph is from 1974. It has the very sophisticated 6138 movement featuring a three register chronograph and differs from most Swiss chronographs in that it doesn’t have a dedicated second hand. But then most Swiss chronos where not automatic wind, didn’t have a date let alone day display and they cost a lot more.

This watch has been beautifully restored (not by me) and I think that it is all original, including the bracelet.

It is signed 4 times and the square sub dials inside a round dial is unusual but looks great.

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Sargisons Chronongraphs 2010

This brand was sourced and named by a friend and colleague of mine and his efforts and advice inspired me to develop my own brand, the Bertoz watch. 

Both of these watches are modern in style, large and bulky. The stainless steel cases are very robust, 50 meter water resist, beautifully finished and on quality, heavy duty leather straps. 

The rectangular one has nice luminous hour markers. The finish on the hour and minute hands is superb and the orange colour of the other four hands contrasts well with the black dial. The movement is Miyota OS20 three register chronograph with a dedicated sub second hand and date. The dial design is complicated but interesting. 

The round one is simpler in design. The hour markers are full figure, raised and in gold. Three of the hands are also gold, the other two, black. It has a nice chapter ring. The movement is Epson, two register chronograph with date. The function here is different with the sweep hand being a dedicated second hand and the two sub dials being the stopwatch.

 These are very nice contemporary watches

A mirror finish on the case back
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Seiko Chronograph “Pepsi” 1973

Without doubt, the most popular of the Seiko chronographs and therefore the most popular of all chronographs.

Nice bright yellow dial with equally bright red and blue bezel featuring a tachymeter scale and a rotating inner divers scale bezel. The rest is standard 6139 two register Chronograph.

I have a story about this model.

My family business became Seiko stockists in late 1977 about the time that Seiko discontinued the mechanical chronographs. Seiko had just introduced digital multifunction watches and that’s what the chrono clientele wanted and what Seiko saw as the future.

Knowing how popular the chronographs had been, especially this model I selected one for stock. It sold for A$165 within days of arriving so a few months later when the Seiko rep came around for the second time, we were selecting models and in the end I said “what about the yellow faced chronograph? I didn’t see it in the range.” He said “Oh that’s discontinued. I remember you selecting it last time, as a mater of fact, that was the last one Seiko Australia had!”  So there you have it, I sold the last Pepsi (as it came to be known) in Australia. And in those days, we were a couple of years behind the rest of the world so it may well have been the last one in the whole World!!! There where still a couple of the three register chronographs, the 6138 calibre, in the range but they retailed for around $225, if I remember correctly, and competing with the latest digital products in which Seiko was leading the way.

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Bulova 1947

 

I’m a little confused about Bulova’as “ethnicity”, sometimes it claims to be from the USA and other times Swiss. Then, in 2010, Bulova, now owned by Citizen, put out a limited edition reproduction of the Accutron and it’s made in Japan!!

One fact is that Joseph Bulova, a Czechoslovak immigrant, started a watch retail business in New York in 1875.

This beautiful 1947 watch is marked USA on the 17 jewel movement but with nicely polished plates, timing screws on the balance and brequet hairspring has all the hallmarks of a high grade Swiss watch.

The style is very typical of the late 40s, small, almost rectangular with nice fancy lugs. The case is gold filled with stainless steel back and the crown is signed and original. The dial is gold with, full figure, the figures raised and has a sunken sub second hand. The hands are stylish and nicely polished.

This beautiful watch is signed four times and like all of my Bulovas has a special place in my collection.

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Swatch Lin Air Chronograph 2005

 

After its phenomenal success in the 80s the Swatch watch looked to diversify a little. We saw the square swatch, the Aqua Scuba and this, the chronograph.

This model from 2005 is also different in that it is constructed in aluminum, the Irony range that this is part of is made from materials other than plastic.

It’s name is Lin Air and I think it’s a great looking watch, the stripes on the strap gives it an even sportier look. It’s a three register chrono with a dedicated sub second hand and a date.

A great find

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Seiko Chronograph 1973

This is as basic as the Seiko chronos got. The movements did not vary at all, the 6139A was superseded by the 6139B sometime in the early 70s with some minor technical changes under the dial but the only difference in the many models that Seiko produced was only in the cases. This one has no bezel, no tachymeter scale only a chapter ring that is part of the dial.  It’s also one of the few Seikos of this era with a perspex rather than a crystal glass. So I presume it was the base model.

But, as I said, the functions are the same for all; two register chronograph, day, date and auto wind. I find the two-tone blue a pleasant colour scheme and it was a popular model. 

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