TAG Heuer Professional 1992

Posted on 10/06/2014 by robswatches

My 100th Post!

This is my 100th post! and, even though I have watches that I think are much finer than this one, it is fitting that I should review a beauty that is, by all accounts, a favorite with Barak Obama.  And if it’s good enough for him, it’s good enough for me.

??????????That’s correct, Barak Obama wears a TAG Heuer, very similar to the one that I have here in my collection.

Over the last 25 years or so, this brand has developed a massive reputation amongst the sports watch buying public. Now, it is possibly the most desirable brand at the affordable end of the market.

This is the result of a decree put down in 1982 by the then newly named manufacturer (around the time Heuer was being purchased by turbo charge manufacturer Techniques d’Avant Garde “TAG”)

This decree was a six feature philosophy, each watch would feature:

  • Water Resistance to 200m
  • Screw Down Crown
  • Double Safety Clasp
  • Unidirectional Bezel
  • Sapphire Crystal
  • Luminous Markings

I remember the advertising slogan “Won’t crack under pressure”….Brilliant!

The positive aspect of the Six Features philosophy was that it clearly established TAG Heuer as a leading modern sports watch brand, as each watch had the full list of features that buyers expected from watches in this category. Just as in the Heuer days, the new philosophy was backed by sports sponsorship and by selecting brand ambassadors, almost always from the sporting world.

The downside was that all models looked very similar. To go up from the entry level you had to go chronograph or mechanical or both.

The Professional series of the 90’s was the entry level, with all the features. It also had the “trademark” “Mercedes, gun sight” hour hand which was also a feature across the range at the time.

Most of the dials were silver in colour. This dial is also silver but it has a granite like iridescent finish that makes it quite distinctive. Another interesting thing about the typical TAG Heuer dials is the combination of circular and rectangular baton hour markers as seen here.

Not much to say about the movement, a standard, Swiss made ETA 955.112 signed TAG Hewer 3.92

tag-heuer-barack-obamaI have seen photographs of Barak Obama wearing other watches but his vintage TAG Heuer Professional seems to make the most frequent appearance so I presume that it is his favorite.

I have four TAGs in my Collection including a self winding chronograph version of this model and that is the one that wins the most wrist time with me.

But, if I ever get to meet Barak Obama, I will be wearing the TAG Heuer Professional reviewed here, leaving him in no doubt that we are brothers in watches.

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Omega Constellation 1970

Posted on 08/06/2014 by robswatches

DSCN7573By 1970 the mighty Constellations had a pedigree that went back to 1952. Omega was one of the most desirable brands in watches, more so than the likes of Rolex or Longines . And of the Omegas, the Constellation was the zenith.

Omega’s reputation was built on decades of quality construction and superb engineering but, more than that, the styles where distinctively beautiful. The “dog leg” lugs and “pie pan” dials made these watches exquisitely pleasant on the eyes. I talk about the late fifties through to the mid sixties.

But style does not stand still and designers need to come up with at least subtle changes. Nobody wants to pay big money for a nice new watch that looks no different to the one his father is wearing.

And so change they did. We are now in 1970, the style is big and blocky and Omega followed the trend. A big case, flashing a lot of stainless steel with a solid, integrated bracelet. A distinctive feature, varying from typical Connies, is the corrugated bezel, the trademark of the Rolex.

The dial maintains the traditional printing style and font but why, oh why did they not include the 5 pointed star in this model? The hands also have the finesse of the traditional Constellation but the index markers are very 1970ish blocky.

The movement is one of the last of the 500 series which is actually not a “500”, it’s a 751 featuring a day/date display with a quick change date.

??????????Now, when the 500 series was designed, it was designed with a date display although there was also a no date option. To keep pace with the Japanese, Omega needed to add a quick date change mechanism and a day display (standard on all Japanese watches) to these models but because they were never designed with these upgrades in mind, these modifications, although functional, were clumsy.

But the saddest thing was that Omega, along with most other manufacturers felt that they needed to compete more and more on price and therefore had to cut corners. We see it here in the finish…..gone is the mirror finish on the rotor that we have grown to expect with the Constellations.

DSCN7574This example is all original, the dial is pristine and the hands would be perfect if not for some damage at the centre as a result of a bad watchmaker. The case has been refinished (by me) and the glass buffed. It is signed 6 times, the movement, back inside and out, crown, glass and clasp.

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Omega Seamaster Cosmic 2000

Posted on 05/06/2014 by robswatches

??????????In 1972 Omega introduced the Seamaster Cosmic 2000. It was different, in design, in the construction of the case and a totally new movement. When watchmakers first laid their eyes on this (at least all the ones I know) threw their arms up in horror……the end was neigh!!!……and they were right.

The new movement:

The new 1000 series looked like nothing before it. It replaced one of the best movements ever produced, the 500 series and boasted a couple of quantum leaps forward that was going to keep the mighty Omega reputation in the stratosphere where it should be. Not one part in the 1000 was interchangeable with the 500 series, not even a screw!

The biggest “advance” was that the oscillation of the balance was increased from 19800 beats per hour to 28800 p/h. This necessitated a much smaller (lighter) balance wheel that resulted in greater accuracy and consistency. It also resulted in more wear and easier stopping.

Other improvements where the reduced height of the movement, 4.25mm compared to the 500 series, 5.05mm (and then they put in a case that is half as thick again as the old Seamaster….crazy.”

The new movement also had a much better quick date set mechanism and a new innovation was a hacking mechanism.

There was a very basic (and incomprehensibly stupid) flaw in the construction of this movement. All mechanical movements have a regulator. Better quality movements have a fine adjustment, associated with the normal regulator for more accurate timing. It is a prerequisite of chronometers to have a fine adjusting mechanism. In the case of the Omega 1000 series, the fine adjustment is actuated by a screw that is placed in a position on the inside of the balance assembly making it impossible to access!!

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The 1000 series adjustment screw, impossible to adjust!

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The 500 series has an accessible adjustment screw and better finished components

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Now for the case

Omega had used sapphire crystals in their ladies watches as far back as the 50’s, my mother still wears one and after 65 odd years of continuous wear, still doesn’t show a scratch, but in men’s watches it was 100% acrylic. I think that this is one of the first gents watches (if not the first) to use a mineral crystal glass.

The case is gold over stainless steel with a stainless steel bezel and back.

The movement is housed in a perfect cylinder where the movement, dial and hands are sandwiched between the glass and the back that are pressed into the case and held there by nylon retaining rings.

There has never been anything like it before and, fortunately, not since.

Summary

This watch was technically radical but very ordinary in style. It was rugged and looked it….it was bulky! It was rated at 60m water resist which I think was understated. It was an Omega and it was a Seamaster and it won favour with the quality seeking public but it was no coincidence that at about this time the invincible Omega brand started to spiral downwards, in quality and in the marketplace.

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Tissot T.12 1970

Posted on 03/06/2014 by robswatches
Someone please tell me what T-12 means!

Someone please tell me what T-12 means!

In 1970 Tissot was a very strong brand in the watch marketplace, popular with the quality conscious buyer who could not justify, or afford, the price of the likes of Omega or Rolex.

Tissot was actually part of the Omega group since 1930 but the two brands where marketed and manufactured completely separate. The only crossover I have ever seen was in the late seventies when the company was on the verge of bankruptcy, there was an Omega Geneve model with a rebadged, and refinished in the Omega gold plated colour, Tissot 781 movement.

 

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The Spanish Galleon synonymous with the Seatar

One of the most popular lines in the Tissot range was the Seastar, a rugged, water resistant, wear anywhere type of watch that had been around since the late 50’s. This model has all the hallmarks of a Seastar but doesn’t have the name printed on the dial. It does, however, have the Spanish Galeon embossed on the back which was also a symbol of the Seastar.

Tissots had many distinguishing features. One, that was typical of the period, was the 12 faceted back as seen on this model. The movement is the, slightly better than ordinary, 784 Automatic with a date display.

Tissot T 12

I think Tissot was the first to use plastic, note the case ring

Throughout its history, Tissot have been one of the most innovative manufacturers claiming many firsts in watch making. One of those, that did the reputation of Tissot no good amongst watchmakers, was the use of plastic components. In this model we see a plastic case ring which was considered cheap, cost cutting at the time but is now appreciated as a suitable material in this circumstance because of its shock absorbing qualities.

Signed four times, the dial, movement, back and crown, this a good example of a mid quality workman’s type watch of 1970.

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Certina DS2 1970

Posted on 20/11/2013 by robswatches

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If there was a tougher watch produced in the late 50’s through to the late 70’s then I don’t know about it.

The company that produced Certina came into existence 1888. The first Certina branded watch was marketed in 1939. For the next 40 years Certina became renowned for producing quality, well engineered movements with a finish that was second to none.

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The beautifully finished 25-651 was a favourite with watchmakers. Note the yellow, rubber shock absorbing ring.

Certina released the DS (Double Safety) in 1958 and the DS2, style changes with some minor technical changes, in 1968.

This DS2 is circa 1970. Everything about it was tough;  big solid stainless case, double sealed crown, extra thick perspex glass, very thick back with a solid O ring seal. But its big point of difference was a thick rubber shock absorbing ring that suspended the movement inside the case allowing it to move in all directions in the case of a shock. It was virtually break proof.

At a time when few people had more than one watch, a watch with “all round” characteristics was the norm.  An Omega Constellation was perfect for the professional Certina ds-2floatingwho could, first of all afford it, was smart enough to wear it at the office, robust and water resistant enough for playing tennis or while boating, won’t get damaged in the garden and elegant enough for formal social functions.  The DS was so robust (much more than Constelation) that it came at the expense of elegance and therefore did not suit the above mentioned professional.

This watch was perfect for the tradie or farmer. But there were two problems; most tradies couldn’t afford a DS and the farmers who could afford one preferred the name Omega or Rolex.

So the DS was catering for a very small segment of the market but, being in production for 20 years with very few modifications, cements this excellent watch as one of the all time greats.

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Breitling Top Time 1966

Posted on 13/11/2013 by robswatches

Today Breitlings are a rather upmarket offering, popular with pilots and those who aspire to the glamour of flying.  This is no accident. Breitling have targeted that market for at least the last 75 years.  In recent years they DSCN2078sponsor air races, aerobatics contests and teams along with other mechanical action sports. The logo is a pair of wings spanning a stylised “B”.

The company has its origins in Switzerland in 1884 but I think the marque’s  attraction to aviators started in the 1940’s when they added a circular slide rule to the bezel of their chronograph models for use by pilots. In 1961, Scott Carpenter one of the original astronauts in the Mercury space program approached Breitling with idea of incorporating a 24 hour dial instead of the normal 12 hour dial. This was needed because of the lack of day and night during space travel. Breitling complied, and produced the 24-hour Navitimer which Carpenter wore on his 1962 space flight.

This basic but nice chronograph is the Top ??????????Time, features a tachometer ring and little else; no date and only two register, the left side sub dial is a dedicated seconds indicator. It uses the Valjoux 7730 movement that was produced, with small modifications, from 1948 to 1978.

Breitling did not produce their own movements.  I don’t think that any manufacturer produced their own chronograph movements. The market was taken up by Ebauche manufacturers like Valjoux, Lemania, Landeron and Venus. Even the might of Omega, Longines and Rolex used these Ebauche movements.

In 1969 Breitling, along with Hamilton/Buren and Heuer released what is a contender for the world’s first self winding chronograph. The other condenders where Zenith and Seiko.

James-Bond-Breitling-Top-Time-Watch-Thunderball-1965My Top Time does have a connection with fame beyond being a Breitling. In the 1965 film Thunderball, James bond was issued with a specially modified Top Time that had a bulky case and doubled as a geiger counter. The dial and movement is identical to mine, save the black dial. In June 2013 it sold by Christies for $160,383!

I didn’t pay anywhere that much for mine and I didn’t even know its James Bond connection when I bought it. A friend of mine came to me with it; not only a chronograph, but a Breitling chronograph……I wanted it!

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Restoration Seiko Chronograph Part 2

Posted on 10/11/2013 by robswatches

I managed to get all the parts I needed to complete the restoration. So, firstly, I disassembled the case.

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??????????Then the movement was disassembled. There are some components that are left assembled, the balance assembly, the mainspring is left in its barrel, parts on the three plates. It’s not necessary to pull those down and I mention it only to say that there are more parts to this watch than what you see in the pictures.

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Then the movement and all the components are placed in the cleaning machine baskets for cleaning. The movement is then re-assembled and oiled. Surprising, all parts where fine, nothing needed replacing.

DSCN7259  DSCN7258

Restoring the bracelet was a chore because of deep scratches. Restoring the two tone, brushed and polished, components meant tending to each component individualy. Here I first file out the scratches, one link at a time and then use two different wheels on the buff to get the desired finish on each individual component of the links.

      DSCN7261  ??????????

The same with the case, certain surfaces are polished, others brushed.

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Some surfaces where better attended to with a smaller wheel attached to a hand held flexi shaft.  The O rings on the pushers and crown needed replacing as did the back seal but the glass seal was in perfect condition.

I couldn’t get original shaped hands but the hands had to be replaced. The hands I used were the best I could do but the result is pleasing and only the purist would notice.
The case was re-assembled, including a new glass, the movement fitted and………….

DSCN7278

………The finished job!  Notice the two tone finish on the bracelet (that took a lot of work) Not bad if I say so myself.

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Tissot Chronograph 1969

Posted on 03/10/2013 by robswatches

From one of the greatest of mainstream watchmakers comes this beautiful chronograph.

DSCN6932Nowadays a chronograph is no big deal, they can be very cheap and are popular even in fashion brands with all sorts of bling. But before the electronic revolution, chronograph technology was very complicated and expensive. They were also bulky (okay for the fashion of the late 60’s and early 70’s) and very distinctive with several sub-dials and two push buttons. Because of the complications and the precision required to make it all work, there were no cheap ones; if someone was wearing a chrono, they paid big money.

This is a three register with a dedicated second hand. The three chrono hands are an easy to see, bright orange colour, the time keeping hands are white with generous luminescence on the hour and minute hands. The index markers are also large and luminous. Add a nice chapter ring and a two tone (black and white) bezel with tachometer markings and you have a very attractive watch.

DSCF0136Tissot have been one of the most innovative of all watchmakers with many firsts since the brands inception in 1853, I won’t go into these right now but here there well may be another. We have here a leather strap (this one is not original) with a fold over clasp, the type that is common on metal bracelets. I don’t know if this is a first but I have not seen it on any watch earlier than this.

Even mighty manufacturers like Tissot and Omega didn’t have the resources (or need) to develop  an in-house chronograph, this watch uses a Lemania 873 and there is nothing wrong with that.

This watch was purchased in Fiji on the 29th of January 1969. I know that because I acquired it with the original box, guarantee and instruction booklet.

A Chronograph, a Tissot, Instruction book/guarantee, box…..all original!

LOVE IT, LOVE IT, AND LOVE IT!!

 

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Restoration Project – Seiko Chronograph

Posted on 23/09/2013 by robswatches

 A watch with a lot of character! But apart from a lot of scratches, it’s not too bad. It’s a 1971 vintage Seiko chronograph with a 6139B movement.

I’ve always liked the Seiko chronos, I have twelve of them in my collection and there is room for more.

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Very scratched but quite restorable

Seiko discontinued the parts for this watch about 30 years ago but I should be able to source the case parts that I need and any mechanical parts that’s required, I should have from several old movements that I have as wrecks. I won’t proceed with the restoration until I am sure I can secure all parts.

The obvious thing first, it needs a glass. The case is badly scratched but will polish up well, pity about the engraving on the back and although I could change the back, I don’t like doing that because that is where the serial number is etched.

The band is original, well worn but will tidy up nicely.

Both the push buttons jam when operated – rectifiable.

All the seals have perished and need replacing, the only one I’m worried about (procuring) is the glass seal.

The watch is dead stopped, the chrono mechanism is not working, at best, a clean and overhaul will fix all that, but it could require parts. I won’t know until I disassemble it. Surprisingly, the movement looks pretty good.

Prima facia the dial looks great but close up it is a little blotchy. The printing is fair, as is the raised “Seiko” emblem. Importantly it still ??????????holds its rich iridescence that would have helped this models popularity in the marketplace. The luminous index markers have lost there “brightness” but I can’t do anything about that and I don’t intend to do anything to dial at all.

The hour and minute hands are another story – terrible! and must be replaced. These could be a problem to find.

Okay, so that’s the initial inspection, the next step is to find the parts. Once I’m sure I can get all I need, I will start the work.

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Omega Constelation 1963

Posted on 01/09/2013 by robswatches

After (3)    After (11)

It is so hard to find an Omega Constelation from the early 60’s in good condition especially with a good original dial. It seems that I am with the majority in seeing these, nicknamed “pie pan” models, as the most beautiful amongst the beautiful Omegas of the period.

This is a 1963 example featuring the “dog leg” lugs, “pie pan dial” and the amazing, chronometer grade (and beautiful) 561 movement.

The Constellation badge

The constellation has, since its inception, always been the flagship of the Omega range. Back in the ’50s and ’60s, Omega had a higher status than Rolex, at least in my part of the world.  Omega was renowned as a ‘high value’ watch company, producing exceptionally well-made pieces that offered value, accuracy and dependability. And this deserved status was due to a solid commitment to old-fashioned notions of quality and artistry as opposed to producing watches to a price. It was a prestigious enough brand to be given to presidents as gifts. And the brand received a further boost when the Speedmaster was robust enough to be chosen by NASA for their astronauts. It was comparatively expensive to buy an Omega watch in the 1950s and 60s and, although an Omega watch was desirable to the ordinary man, it was way beyond his budget.

This is the fourth constellation that I have restored but it is the only one in my collection now. The other three have all been sold as I succumbed to the high prices that these beautiful watches attract.

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The Omega watermark over the centre of the hands

It is by no means a perfect example of a 1963 Constelation. The original dial is sadly aged and the movement seems to have suffered moisture damage because parts like the rotor have been buffed.  It is all original, signed 5 times including a watermark logo in the centre of the perspex.

 

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