Seiko 5 1980

Posted on 30/04/2011 by robswatches

Seiko 5  

In 1970 Seiko produced watches like this;  dressy, good looking, practical, brimming with features and affordable. This is the Seiko 5 from 1980 and a variation is still in production today.

Comparing this to a similar priced Swiss watch, these are the charactaristics that most Swiss equivalents lacked; Durable gold plating, integrated metal bracelet, automatic wind, day and date, quick day and date change.

Okay, the Seiko was popular because it had the bells and whistles at a good price (just like the Toyotas with cassette players etc) but, at a time when Japanese products where perceived to be inferior, the Seiko was expected to be unreliable and not as durable as a Swiss watch.  In time this was proved wrong with the Seiko outperforming just about everything in every way including watches many times it’s price.

This watch has the amazingly simple 7009 movement which evolved from the 7005 and went on to be, with modifications, the workhorse of all Seiko mechanicals to this day.

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Longines Grand Prize Automatic 1967

Posted on 30/04/2011 by robswatches

  Longines Auto

The Longines Grand Prize automatic from 1967, stainless steel, conservative style with very plain dial features one of the most unique designs in automatic movements with a huge gear, the diameter of the movement, driving the winding mechanism. It looks quite impressive and the finish on the movement is of a very high standard (typical Longines) but the technology never progressed passed this model indicating that it possessed no advantage over conventional automatic systems. 

This watch features a one-piece case, which is no case back.  The movement is removed through the glass and there are only two leakage points for foreign matter; the glass and the crown. 

It’s an ordinary looking watch but thanks to its pedigree, I’m pleased to have it

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Hamilton 14ct gold 1950

Posted on 20/04/2011 by robswatches

 

This very nice 1950 Hamilton features a 14ct gold case, art deco design with fancy lugs, a sweep second hand (high tech at the time) and is one of very few USA watchmakers that survived into the 1950’s.

The Hamilton 748 movement is typically pleasing on the eye for this era with characteristic Hamilton striped finish

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Elgin Dress Watch 1927

Posted on 20/04/2011 by robswatches

 

In 1927 wrist watches where just eclipsing pocket watches and small rectangular watches was the rage.  Problem was that most manufacturers had not long developed round movements.  So fitting a round movement into a rectangular case was a problem. This was achieved  by stepping the case down to a slight bulge that is hardly noticeable, and a lovely design that is so characteristic of the age (was the Chrysler building built in the 20’s?).

With a gold filled case, a stainless steel back and a basic 7 jewel movement (Elgin 403), this beautiful watch was made for the budget end of the market even though (I’m guessing) would have cost a workingman several weeks pay.

I brought this watch for a song because it had no glass and needed repair.  Repairing it was easy, finding a glass was a mission but here it is; one of my prized pieces.

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Rolex Datejust Chronometer 1985

Posted on 17/04/2011 by robswatches

?????????? Rolex (1)

The Rolex Datejust from 1985 is a classic Rolex.  Oyster case with screw down crown, fluted 18ct gold bezel and magnifying date bubble are hallmarks of this great brand.

Like most watchmakers, I wasn’t a great Rolex fan. In the 60’s they where expensive, not easy to get parts and clumsy to repair while there were many other brands that where none of that.  But in the 70’s all the other brands cut corners on a fast track to bankruptcy in the face of the Japanese quartz invasion while Rolex not just stood firm, they improved.  It  is one of the few watches to still have a brequet hairspring,  balance wheel with timing screws and a certified chronometer.  It’s also a great size, while fashions change between large, small, bulky, slim etc, the Datejust has not changed and sits on a normal wrist beautifully.

This watch is one of my favourites and gets a lot of wrist time and, anyway, what sort of collection would it be without a Rolex?

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Swatch “Yuri” 1992

Posted on 11/04/2011 by robswatches

    Today (April 12, 2011) is the 50th anniversary of the first space flight by Yuri Gagarin, the first man in space. In 1992 Swatch released this watch, designed by Italian comic artist Igor Tuveri  to commemorate the 30th anniversary (although it was released a year late)

DSCF5249The first Swatch, Jelly, was released in late 1982, sold for $50 and was an instant success. Swatch was designed as a throw away fashion accessory in ever-changing designs and colours although the watch itself was only available in two style, large and small.  The only parts that could be changed was the strap and the battery.  The watch was impossible to open, not even the glass was removable so no repairs could be undertaken eliminating the responsibility of supplying spare parts.

Such was the success that this brand saved the entire Swiss watch industry that at the time was virtually bankrupt. Soon most major names were gobbled up by the Swatch conglomerate including Omega, Tissot, Longines……..and lots more

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Rado Quartz 1978c

Posted on 10/04/2011 by robswatches
     

Rado make some beautiful watches; this is not one of them.  This watch is about 35 years old but doesn’t have a scratch on it thanks to the tungsten carbide case and sapphire crystal but that doesn’t improve its attractiveness. Neither does the faceted sapphire glass.  It gets no better when I look inside.  The 70’s ESA quartz movements is one of the ugliest made.  I think I was had when I took $30 off the price of an Olympic for this. 

On the possitive side, it’s signed four times including the movement and crown and it goes.

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Omega Pocket Watch 1948

Posted on 10/04/2011 by robswatches
     
100 years ago a watch was what we call today a pocket watch. By the mid twenties the wristwatch became dominant and the pocket watch was relegated to workmen who couldn’t wear a fragile wristwatch (it wasn’t until the second half of the twentieth century that waterproof and shockproof became standard). This 1948 Omega is designed for the workman, a locomotive engineer in fact. I have another Omega pocket railway watch in this collection, that one from 1966. This one is bulkier and less stylish. The movements (38.5 in this and 161 in the other) look almost identical but the latter is much sleeker and I doubt if any part is interchangeable. 

Like the more modern Omega, this is a former NSW Government railway watch with N.S.W. T.D. printed on dial (T.D. meaning Transport Department) and L8676 engraved on the back (L for locomotive).

As a footnote it was the railway that made accurate timekeeping important to the wide community. Station masters, loco drivers and other staff were issued with top quality pocket watches.

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Shanghai 1970c

Posted on 09/04/2011 by robswatches

   

Before the fall of the bamboo curtain, China made their own watches and clocks.  I can remember the alarm clocks.  Where I worked in 1970 they sold them for $1.95 and they would arrive in store with spare mainsprings, balance staffs and other parts that were thrown away because it was uneconomical to undertake any repairs. They didn’t need much repair, they performed really well.

As for Chinese watches, I can’t remember ever having one cross my bench.  But now I have one.  This is an interesting but very ordinary watch in every way.  The movement looks like a rip off of an AS 1187, an ordinary but robust Swiss movement that was found (among others) in kids watches. The shock proof springs look exactly like Seiko. The case is reasonably solid, water resistant and the whole thing would have performed quite well. It’s style puts it at around 1970. It is signed all over including the crown and, curiously, combines western writing and Chinese symbols. 

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Waltham 9ct Gold Pocket 1903

Posted on 09/04/2011 by robswatches

   

Waltham is the T model Ford of watches; They are very common.  That’s because there were millions sold. And that’s because they were not only technically brilliant in their time but beautiful as well. 

This example in 9ct gold with delightfully thin hands and fine roman numerals has a highly polished and decorated 17 jewel movement. The balance is bi-metallic with timing screws and a brequette hairspring. It is mechanically superior to just about anything that has been produced in the last 50 years. Yet in 1903 (the year that this beauty was produced) it was little more than standard equipment.  110 years ago a buyer looking for a good watch would consider a Waltham like one today would consider a Seiko. 

And I bought this immaculate example with perfect enamel dial at auction for not much more than it’s gold value.

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